Travels with Fred the Flea

 


Friday, December 5, 1997

It’s a beautiful morning here in Thailand. Madame seems very excited even though she didn’t sleep well last night for some reason. She ordered some breakfast from room service and had just sat down to eat when she was informed that because of an accident on the freeway, the departure time had been moved up. Madame went into a total panic and spun around the room like Ralph does when I’m nibbling on his hindquarters and he can’t reach me.

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When Madame went to the lobby she was the last one there. Everyone was quiet, but Madame was very happy. We got into one of those vans and very slowly made our way back to that airport. “Uh oh” I said to myself. Not another one of those airplane rides. We stayed in the airport for quite some time. Eventually we got on the airplane.

We must be going somewhere very special for Madame to be this happy. She’s sitting here drumming on her computer, drinking cognac and listening to Tom Petty sing o/~ we gotta get to a higher place and I hope that we arrive together o/~ The little screen on the seat is showing the “Plateau of Tibet.” Sounds interesting. Wow!! LOOK at those mountains!! They’re huge and they are beautiful. We must be at the top of the world.

We’re circling over a large city. The buildings are mostly red and the are organized pretty loosely. The pilot and the little screen in front of me says this city is called “Kathmandu.” I like the name. I have a feeling I’m going to like this place.

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When Madame got off of the airplane, she was met by a very nice man who was looking for “Mr. Jones.” For a while I thought that I was going to have to get used to yet another name for Madame but soon figured that he was just mistaken about the "Mr." part. Madame said that he was a Gurkha. I wonder what a Gurkha is. He looked like a man to me. Madame and her friends then had to wait in a very very long, slow line. It had something to do with visas. Her friend Alf looked longingly at the short, fast line reserved for international diplomats and started making comments about third world countries. Madame suggested that perhaps he was just missing his customary First Class expediency and a solution to the problem would be to become an international diplomat. Madame seemed serious about this suggestion. Alf did not seem serious about it. Oh well.

After a great deal of hustle and bustle, Madame and her friends were met by a very nice young man named Anil. He drove big bus with “Tiger Mountain” written on the side. I started wondering if I was going to be able to taste a tiger on this trip. I’ve seen them on that noisy black box at Madame’s house and they look huge. All that flesh; so little competition.

 

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Now we are relaxing in Madame’s hotel room. The hotel is called the "Yak & Yeti." Both of those things, from what I understand, and very hairy and I sure would love to taste one. I wonder why humans name so many places after animals and then never let any of the animals hang out in the place that bears their name. And then they have places full of hundreds and hundreds of animals and call it a "zoo." Just another mystery.

Kathmandu is truly an intriguing place; I see why Madame likes it so much. It seems so totally remote from anything in Madame's real life. It's so colorful and disorganized and the people are very attractive and they all seem to have music in their souls. I’ll tell you why =I= like this place so much! A little earlier Madame went for a walk over to a building called Tiger Mountain. She chatted and did some strange things with her little drumming computer and then came back to the hotel. But while we were out walking, I saw what heaven must look like. Dogs. Everywhere. Walking up and down the streets, in the alleys, in the yards. I have never seen so many dogs. Once I get my bearings around here, I will have to go exploring.

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We ate dinner in the hotel restaurant. Madame ordered a drink called a “Yak’s Armpit.” I am not real good at reading, but I thought the menu said “Amrit.” I figured Madame probably knew something that I didn't. But I smelled the drink and it didn’t smell like an armpit to me. I was quite disappointed. (I actually found out later, after my conversion to Hinduism and immersion in the Nepalese culture that "amrit" means "forever" - or something like that.) Madame and Alf sat at the bar for a while, relaxing and talking until it was time to go to the room and get some good sleep.

December 4th / December 6th


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